The Evolution of Carrie Mathison’s Style (or lack thereof)

a costume designer’s job is to interpret the lives of the characters through the clothes they choose to wear. And for the main character, it’s certain these choices are purposeful. They’re telling a story on their own, whether we realize it or not. And sometimes a lack of change is just as significant of constant change or a big statement piece.

I thought it warranted further discussion — at the very least investigation. Today, I’m looking at season one — the golden years…

The first time we ever see Carrie she’s in Baghdad negotiating (i.e., bribing) her way into an Iraqi prison. She’s in full case officer mode. This is not the Carrie we see in season four and it’s also definitely not the Carrie we see ten months later, when she’s back in Washington. This short string of scenes presents a Carrie we have never seen since, and it’s reflected in her wardrobe.

The khaki coat, rose-colored scarf, brown leather crossbody bag (all since have been black). This is Carrie dressed in more rich, warm tones than she ever is normally. She’s wearing a long tunic. From behind, she could very literally blend right in. The entire scene is rendered in these same warm earth tones.

And then we’re dropped into this:

Black peacoat, heels, is that a Chanel crossbody bag???, diamond earrings…

And it’s all black and grey, it’s the color palette you think of when you think of business attire. Something she’d wear out so as not to attract too much attention to herself but not completely fade into the background either.

Because look at this outfit. This is probably the girliest Carrie has ever dressed, which makes sense because she’s returning from a night of meaningless sex where she has to present herself as the ideal woman: the one who will have sex with you and not expect you to call later.

…and then we’re given a glimpse of the Carrie Mathison uniform: black or navy pantsuit, blouse underneath. Soooo many sleeveless blouses. I’m not sure that this is significant. Pretty sure it’s because Homeland for the first three seasons shot in Charlotte in the summer heat and Claire has great arms.

But she fades right in, surrounded by her coworkers, all wearing blacks or dark greys. I mean look at them:

The pilot also gives us our first glimpse into her casual wear, which is similarly monochromatic. I love this sweater:

All of this just goes to show that from the very beginning the show presents a few different portraits of Carrie. In her work, she dresses to blend in. This is obviously vital in covert work. She can’t attract attention to herself. And she’s harboring a secret at this point, so she already feels other. She doesn’t need her clothes to tell that same story.

At the same time, she’s craving something. Human connection, first and foremost, which is manifested in the way she so singularly zeroes in on Brody in his first few weeks home. And also the nights out the show alludes to in the beginning and end of the episode, highlighted by that sad engagement ring.

One of the more interesting motifs throughout the season is how Carrie and Brody are often dressed alike, signifying that underlying connection — and tension.

This dress in particular is very memorable. People mention it a lot when they talk about Carrie’s wardrobe. It’s pretty unusual — both for Carrie and in the context of the show — but it’s notable for how much it mimics the military uniform he’s wearing. The large buckle at the front, the buttoned pockets on either breast. One of the best examples of subtle costuming choices ever on this show. Look how they mirror each other, though she’s casual — stance askew, collar rather haphazardly open, and he’s all buttoned up, everything perfectly in place. They’re traveling on the same wavelength but not yet in sync.

Until…

Carrie wears a lot of grey in the first season — quite indicative of her moral ground then, now, always. The first few times she speaks to Brody? Grey.

Mostly what we see of Carrie’s wardrobe in season one is that she’s still wearing the business formal attire necessary of her position, but it’s decidedly feminine. Sometimes it’s a dress, or even the color of her blouse. The point is it’s not totally devoid of character. She’s coming into Langley everyday, which is an old boy’s club. And that’s a fine line to walk. Go too far to one side, and dress in samey pant suits and colorless collared blouses and she’ll appear too masculine–or not pretty enough. But she can’t dress too frilly or too feminine if she wants to be taken seriously.

This is the perfect example. She’s specifically asked to interrogate the Saudi diplomat because she’s a woman. She chooses an outfit and accessories (diamond studs) that call attention to the fact that yes, she is a woman, but she’s still wearing a tailored suit, the same as he is.

This outfit in particular, from “Semper I,” echoes the first outfit we see her in in DC. Tied skirt, separate tank, and she wears it out to the bar when she’s flirting with Estes.

One of the most memorable scenes from season one is the closing scene of “The Vest,” when Carrie’s wall is revealed, and costume-wise it’s notable for the bright red scarf Carrie wears around her neck.

She puts it on in anticipation of Brody coming over but here, in front of her board, it’s the only thing tying her to the work, reds and oranges drawing your eye in as the rest casts an eerie shadow.

But it’s also a bloody noose she’s tied around her own neck. In so many ways, Carrie’s downfall in the first season is her own doing.

And then, in perfect Homeland style, a bookend. A mirror held up to the pilot’s opening scenes. Carrie, dying to blend in. The overlarge coat, zipped to the top, head covered. This outfit is strange for a few reasons, the first of which being: she’s wearing a hat. This is something that, three seasons later, she’s yet to do again. Ditto that coat. The whole thing is so utilitarian. She’s wearing Converse sneakers for God’s sake.

It’s almost as if …

I’ll let you draw your own conclusions.